We paid a visit to the new Whole Foods Market in Kensington, London, the other day, to see how it measured up to our way of thinking. For those of you who have missed this one, The Whole Foods Market is the first UK branch of a huge retail chain in the US that specialises in high-quality, eco-friendly, farmer-friendly, everything-friendly food. So, what did we think?
Well, the first thing to say is that this is very clearly a slick operation. It runs over 3 floors of prime retail space on Kensington High Street and is as well thought out as you’d expect from an big American retailer. The food is beautifully presented, in a way that even the most reluctant foodie would struggle to resist. Eggs, for instance, aren’t boxed up and out of view, but spread out on a bed of straw. And don’t think we’re just talking about chicken eggs either. There are duck eggs, goose eggs and even, at more than £25 a go, ostrich eggs. In many ways it’s a wonderful example of where supermarket shopping could be, even if ostrich eggs are unlikely to fly off the shelves in Tesco.
But beyond the food itself, the thing that really stands out is the way you’re bombarded, from window display to checkout, with messages about the company’s green, and especially local, credentials. ‘We support local British farmers!’, it screams from the walls. ‘Supporting local growers isn’t something we do, it’s everything we do’ says a bold message scrawled across the front windows. Well, we’ve seen some of their criteria for food production and they’re both exacting and easy to understand – there’s no doubt that, at least compared to supermarkets, these guys are aiming to do things in the best way possible.
It’s just that, well, you can’t help feeling that it’s all a bit skin deep. That it’s not a love for farmers or for high-quality food that gets these people out of bed in the morning. It’s the love of big business, of making money. Supporting local growers, for example, isn’t everything they do. Unless you count local growers from New Zealand, Italy and just about every other country you care to think of. Which is not really what they’re trying to tell you, is it?
You can’t help wondering if they don’t love the ‘local’, fairly sourced, organic products quite as much as they love the obscene mark-ups they manage to persuade Kensington shoppers to bear. We’re perhaps being a bit unfair because compared with what the supermarkets do, this place is an absolute breath of fresh air in food retailing. But compared with shopping directly from real, local producers? It doesn’t even come close. All of which seems to prove to us that, no matter how hard big business tries, it just can’t replicate what proper local food can deliver. Whole Foods Market may have 190 stores in the US already, but we’ve got 7,500 better stores on BigBarn right now.
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